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On my last trip to Africa from the US, a change in flight schedules resulted in long layovers at Frankfurt International Airport of more than 8 hours on both flight rotations. That left plenty of time to kill between flights so I had to think of ways to make the most of the situation. Hopefully, you’ll find these tips useful if you find yourself in a similar situation.

Tip 1: Don’t underestimate the value of a day room during a long layover.

En route to Namibia, I had two long overnight hauls (Denver to Frankfurt and Frankfurt to Windhoek). I can’t sleep sitting upright so I knew I had to find a place to catch some zzz’s during my layover. There is a Sheraton at the airport, but when I checked pricing for a day room it was the same as an overnight stay (approximately $250 USD). That was a bit steep for my daily budget so I opted for the Holiday Inn – Frankfurt Airport (http://www.holidayinn.com/hotels/us/en/frankfurt/frais/hoteldetail) a 10-minute drive away for just under $85 USD. That price included airport transfers, a comfortable room with hot shower, and free wi-fi in the lobby. Definitely worth it!

Tip 2: Explore other areas outside of your departure gate terminal at large airports.

When I left the airport for the Holiday Inn, I exited through the main section of Terminal 1. This part of the airport had a wide variety of restaurants and shopping options on offer. If I hadn’t left the airport, I may never have known about all of these businesses. My Air Namibia flight was out of Terminal 2 and that area of the airport doesn’t have near the number of choices once you pass through the Passport Control checkpoint.

During my layover on the way back, I was sitting next to another traveler that was complaining about how Frankfurt was the worst airport for a long layover. He had five hours before his next flight and we were near the Z gates. Admittedly, there isn’t much near the Z gates so I suggested he head for the main part of Terminal 1. You have to show your passport when you exit and return, but it’s a quick process and not reason enough to stay put. Check out the airport’s website for more details: http://www.frankfurt-airport.com/content/frankfurt_airport/en/shop_enjoy0.html.

Tip 3: Explore the surrounding area outside the airport.

If you don’t need sleep and you don’t want to spend hours at the airport, leave and explore. There’s a train station at the airport (http://www.raileurope.ca/europe-travel-guide/germany/frankfurt/train-station/frankfurt-airport-train-station.html) and you can get to Frankfurt’s Main Station in less than 15 minutes and Downtown in less than half an hour. Your long layover may end up being a mini-vacation in itself.

Join Mervi Hjelmroos-Koski, Manager of Botanical Art and Illustration Programs at Denver Botanic Gardens, for a unique exploration of art archives in Europe. This 12-day tour includes four nights in London with the remaining time in southern Germany. Discover the hidden jewels of Kew Gardens’ Library, Art & Archives and enjoy Dr. Shirley Sherwood’s company while exploring the current exhibits in the only gallery solely devoted to botanical art. Learn about published and unpublished art treasures in the Natural History Museum and British Library and enjoy a tour of the British Library’s Conservation Studios. Presentation of the extensive three year conservation research project of the outstanding Reeves Collection in addition to William Morris Red House and the newly re-opened De Morgan Centre are in the program. Take a one day break from collections to visit the well-known artist and teacher, Ann Swan at her studio in Wiltshire, with a stop at Lacock Abbey and neolithic monuments at Avebury.

 

Travel by high-speed rail to Frankfurt (via Brussels) to explore Maria Sibylla Merian’s works from the 17th century and spend time at the University of Tübingen with Leonhart Fuchs’ collection. Learn about the scientific side of the great poet Goethe and visit the Gutenberg Museum. Explore Germany’s oldest town Trier, and on the way to Nürnberg, visit the Heidelberg Castle to learn about pharmaceutical history in this remarkable museum, which displays one of the finest collections of paintings, manuscripts and related objects from the past 2000 years.

 

The tour comes to an end in Bavaria, where you can sample special wines and famous gingerbread while discovering the secrets of Faber-Castell’s 250-year history on the tour of the company’s Jugend castle. Before leaving Germany, visit the Imperial Castle of Nürnberg and the Germanic National Museum, which boasts Albrecht Dürer collections and the unique Codex aureus, produced in the 10th century.

 

For more information, visit Reefs to Rockies’ Special Trips page (http://reefstorockies.com/destinations/special-trips/) or call us at 303.860.6045.  Hurry — space is limited!

 

Namibian coastline

In 1998, the Today Show started featuring a popular travel segment titled “Where in the World is Matt Lauer?”. We were thrilled to see that Namibia was chosen as the first stop in the 10th anniversary of this fast-paced around the world tour.

From stunning landscapes to communal conservancies to wildlife populations on the rebound, Namibia has an incredible amount of diversity on offer to travelers.  Watch some of the highlights from this year’s “Where in the World is Matt Lauer” and we think you’ll agree.

Did you know Namibia is home to the world's largest population of free-roaming cheetahs?

Click here for highlights from the Today Show’s segment on Namibia.  Thinking of a trip to Namibia yourself?  We can help custom design an unforgettable adventure for you.  Check out our website for more details.

The name “killer whale” has invoked fear in humans for generations.  Early descriptions of “whale killers” or “killers of whales” gave rise to the common name.  Orca, derived from Orcinus orca and used more often these days, may not be any better for the species’ reputation. In Latin, Orcinus orca translates to “whale from the underworld of the dead”. 

Strictly speaking, orcas are not whales – they’re black and white dolphins.  Studies have shown vast complexity within the species and there seems to be three distinct population types: resident, transient and offshore.  Resident orcas feed on fish, transients on mammals, including whales, but little is known about offshore individuals.  Heavy scarring and worn down teeth seem to suggest sharks comprise a portion of an offshore orca’s diet.

BC’s Southern Resident orcas include three pods (J,K, and L) comprised of more than 80 individuals.  The pods were made famous in National Geographic Magazine’s April 2005 issue (Check out http://ngm.nationalgeographic.com/2005/04/orcas/chadwick-text for the full article and photos).  Today, we’re in search of those same pods with Wild Whales Vancouver guiding us. 

11:00 am: Departure from Granville Island, Vancouver.  Low cloud cover and fall-like temperatures may prove to be a blessing in disguise.  When the weather turns for the worse, many marine species tend to move closer to shore so our hopes are high.

11:50 am: Update from Captain Scotty.  “We have good news and bad news.  The good news is that there are reports of orcas from two of the three resident pods (K and L pods).  The bad news is that they’re all the way down near Victoria, another two hours away.  But don’t worry, we have plenty of gas and we may encounter the third pod (Pod J) on the way down.”

12:55 pm: We pass by a small group of Dall’s porpoises, the fastest cetacean in the region, even faster than orcas. 

Dall's porpoise

1:10 pm: Fleeting glimpses of harbor porpoises, a shy and elusive species.

1:50 pm: Orcas!  Once orcas are spotted, a boat is only allowed to stay in the area for an hour.  Since these individuals were feeding, we only caught short glimpses of individuals as they surfaced for a breath between dives.  We saw several males with huge dorsal fins, but the highlight was a young calf swimming alongside its mother. 

Young calf swimming alongside mother.

After further research, the young calf was identified as a member of L Pod.  Its sex is still unknown and it was probably born sometime between December 2010 and February 2011.  The calf’s scientific name is L118, and it belongs to L55.  The L Pod matriline can be viewed at http://www.whaleresearch.com/orca_ID_matrilines.html under ‘L-Pod’ although it’s a bit too early for the calf to be included in the chart.

6:00 pm: Arrival to Vancouver.  Hot chocolate waiting.

For more information on BC’s orcas, check out http://netcommunity.vanaqua.org/KWAP and http://orcasound.net/.

 

Red-capped manakin at El Remanso.

We love to share good news, especially when it involves our friends at El Remanso Lodge in the Osa Peninsula of Costa Rica.  El Remanso was recently awarded  “Level 5” certification for sustainable tourism from CST (Certification of Sustainable Tourism), a product of the Costa Rican Tourism Board. Level 5 certification is the highest possible rating and El Remanso scored a perfect 100% in all four areas of the evaluation.  CST certification shows an organization’s level of commitment to natural, cultural, and social resource management.

Great job, El Remanso!

Lion at Gorongosa National Park.

Earlier this year, Reefs to Rockies joined SEEtheWild’s network of tour operators and travel companies committed to striving towards wildlife conservation through tourism.  We feel that tourism, when done sustainably and environmentally sensitively, can aid in the protection of wild species across the globe.  SEEtheWILD is the world’s first wildlife conservation travel website and we’re proud to be part of their network.

Whale Shark near Isla Mujeres, Mexico

Last Friday, a wonderful slide show highlighting two of our tours (Swimming with Whale Sharks in Mexico and Mozambique: By Land and By Sea) was featured on Huffington Post.  Swimming with Whale Sharks in Mexico was our #1 selling tour for Summer 2011 and  Mozambique: By Land and By Sea was selected as one of National Geographic Traveler Magazine’s 50 Tours of a Lifetime in 2010.  To see the recent Huffington Post slide show, click here:   http://www.huffingtonpost.com/wallace-j-nichols/ten-great-places-to-see-t_b_955815.html?#s354987&title=Mozambique.

 

Migrating Thomson's gazelles dot the Serengeti plains.

The title of largest and most famous Tanzanian national park goes to the Serengeti.  Designated in 1951 and spanning more than 14,750 km2, the Serengeti is home to the largest number of migratory mammals anywhere on the planet.   From the wildlife point of view, Serengeti may be the most unique park in the world.

Central Serengeti

The migration is a continuous event controlled by rainfall.  Water equals sustenance, and where there’s rain, there’s grass.  Wildebeest, zebras, and gazelles move from the south after birthing young, to the  west and north, all the way to the Masai Mara in Kenya and back again.  This annual cycle is predictable with wildebeest leading the way.  Their grazing habits prepare the grasses for the animals to follow.  Predators also move with the massive herds. 

Endless plains in the south give way to acacia woodlands as you move north.  Kopjes (granite rock formations) dot the landscape and provide important vantage points for both predator and prey.  Seeing the Big 5 — virtually guaranteed. 

Lion cubs at Moru Kopjes

As a child dreaming of travelling to Africa one day, it was the Serengeti that captured my imagination.  Travel there and you’re sure to see why.

For more photos from a recent Reefs to Rockies scouting trip to the Serengeti, check out http://www.flickr.com/photos/reefstorockies/sets/72157627061632988/.

Road into the Crater. Morning fog is likely during June and July.

The Ngorongoro Crater qualifies as one of the best natural areas in Tanzania’s Northern Safari Circuit.  In 1959, more than 8200 km2 were set aside as the Ngorongoro Conservation Area by the government.   A multiple land use area, wildlife, humans and livestock coexist.  The Crater floor lies 610 m below the rim and spans almost 20 km across.  Even with its impressive size, the Crater comprises less than 5% of the Conservation Area.   

Home to the Big 5 (buffalo, rhino, elephant, lion, and leopard), the Crater is a natural amphitheatre for wildlife.  Animal migration doesn’t occur.  A year-round supply of fresh water leaves no reason for wildlife to move from the area.  This phenomenon is in stark contrast to the predictable annual migration in the Serengeti.   

Black rhino on the Crater floor.

 

Lions are common sites.  The Crater floor provides refuge for approximately 20 lion prides, possibly the highest density in Tanzania.  Black rhino have been introduced to the protected area.  A browsing species by nature, black rhinos make due as grazers here.   Elephant and buffalo can be found on the hillsides as well as the floor, but you’ll need to go the forested areas to find leopards.  If you spend six hours on a game drive (the maximum amount of time allowed each day), you may just have a “Big 5 Day”!     

One of two male lions that visited our picnic site during lunch.

For more photos from a recent Reefs to Rockies scouting trip to the Ngorongoro Crater, go to http://www.flickr.com/photos/reefstorockies/sets/72157627053161114/.

Flamingos on Lake Manyara

Situated within the Great Rift Valley, Lake Manyara National Park, Tanzania stretches 50 km along the Rift Valley Escarpment. Lake Manyara, a shallow alkaline lake that provides refuge for greater and lesser flamingos, covers approximately two thirds of the park’s 330 square kilometers. The backdrop provided by the escarpment and flamingo pink on the lake’s edge make for a stunning landscape.

When driving away from Kilimanjaro International Airport or in the town of Arusha, you can’t help but notice national park billboards lining the streets. Lake Manyara’s billboard features tree climbing lions. Yes, it’s true that tree climbing lions can be found in the park’s acacia trees, but Lake Manyara is not the exclusive domain for arboreal felines. Our guide this past trip stated that he’s seen them more often in Serengeti and Tarangire National Parks than at Lake Manyara. However, if you have your heart set on seeing lions in trees, plan on staying two to three nights at the park. With that amount of time and multiple game drives, your chances top out at approximately 50%.

Baboon

Ellie close-up

Year-round ground water allows the plants in Lake Manyara’s riverine forest to stay green with foliage throughout the year. Huge troops of baboons are common sights in this habitat along with resident elephant herds. If you look closely, you may notice that the elephants here are smaller than in other parks in Tanzania’s Northern Circuit. Smaller stature makes it easier to move through dense foliage. Grazers like buffalo, wildebeest and zebra congregate on the plains in large numbers, while hyraxes and klipspringers frequent rocky outcrops of the escarpment. If you’re a fan of feathered fauna, Lake Manyara is sure to please. More than 400 species have been identified in the park and a single day’s checklist often exceeds 100 species.

Hyrax

Klipspringer

When to go: year-round since each season provides unique opportunities. The wet season spans November through June and the dry season from July to October.

View of Silale Swamp in Tarangire National Park, Tanzania.

Tarangire National Park gets its name from the river that runs through the middle of it. The Tarangire River provides a permanent source of year-round water, but in the dry season, it serves as a retreat for large numbers of mammals, including herds of elephant numbering 200-300 strong.

Elephant dust bath.

Located approximately 120 km southwest of Arusha, the drive from Arusha to Tarangire takes between 1.5 and 2 hours over good roads. Tarangire National Park was established in 1970 and spans more than 2600 km2 making it the fifth largest park in Tanzania. Four of the Big Five are found within the park’s boundaries (buffalo, lion, leopard, and elephant) and the bird checklist exceeds 500 species. The open baobab and acacia woodlands make game viewing a bit easier than in areas with dense vegetation.

The trees between the road and Silale Swamp are reliable locations for leopard sightings.

According to park records, Tarangire is home to more elephants per square kilometer than anywhere else in the world. It also hosts the second highest concentration of wildlife in Tanzania during the dry season. The Serengeti/Ngorongoro ecosystem tops the list.

The Tarangire River system is the only reliable source of water for wildlife of the Masai Steppe during the dry season (July – November). Large mammals that migrated out of the park in search of better food during the rainy season return to the river as water holes dry up. Wildlife viewing is easiest at this time, but other months of the year still provide ample game sightings. You can add phenomenal birding and stunning scenery to the list of Tarangire’s attractions throughout the year.  Tarangire should be considered by all travelers planning on touring Tanzania’s northern safari circuit.

Here’s a link to more photos taken at Tarangire during a recent scouting trip: http://www.flickr.com/photos/reefstorockies/sets/72157627015328372/.

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